The Lucozade and ibuprofen started to take effect as I glanced at the GPS. Just 11 minutes left until our tee time, originally booked for 7:15. I thought we had plenty of time—completely unaware it was already 7:20 when my phone rang.
It was JDV: "We're on the box."
A rushed start to a round is among my least favourite things.
But sometimes the less room you give your brain the better.
Both Hoff and I would shoot 13 shots better than the prior day.
The South Coast
The prior day started with more routine and less of a dry-mouth.
Kids at school.
Some last minute work.
Setting my leave auto-reply on email.
But golf was always looming.
JDV, Hoff and I had decided to take the day off and venture down south for 24 hours of golf and golf-adjacent stuff.
We needed to blow off some steam and contemplate the trajectory & direction of The Goat Track. An AGM of sorts. Conducted on moving golf carts.
By down south I mean specifically the South Coast of KZN. For those who haven't travelled to these parts, it really is a golfing haven, particularly in winter.
Good value. Great weather. Some excellent courses.
The South Coast has two distinct golf centres - one a bit further than the other. The Far South - essentially between Port Shepstone and Port Edward - is around 90 mins from Durban and includes courses such as San Lameer, Southbroom and Wild Coast.
We were travelling to the shallow south - anywhere from Scottburgh onwards and this is a stone's throw from Durban. Play here is almost always centred around Umdoni Park Golf Club and any other combo of Selborne, Scottburgh, Umkhomaas or Sheppie (Port Shepstone).
We'd chosen Umdoni and Umkhomaas - a new tick for all three of us and one I'd been targeting for a while. Hell, it was even on my golfing goals list for 2024.
And I'm glad we finally got there.
Umdoni Park
I don't think my golfing year is complete without a round at Umdoni.
That place just makes me feel something.
As you drive in the gates and wind your way through the forest you can't help but feel a little lighter of the world's woes, most of which disappear completely when you crest the hill and the course and clubhouse grace you with their serenity.
In our podcast below (recorded under jovial conditions after we played), we break down Umdoni's history, layout, and vibe.
While my golf may have been less than stellar, that round remains the most fun I’ve had on a course this year, hands down.
Hoff and I shared a cart, barely paying attention to the scorecard as we zigzagged from bush to bush, occasionally searching for lost balls and taking the odd swing. I managed to find my rhythm on the 7th, only for it to vanish again by the 9th tee.
The odyssey of the back nine at Umdoni never disappoints. We executed some epic shots, bumped into a few trees, flew the drone, and shared plenty of laughter in the late evening sun.
Dinky the Dolphin
Hoff and JDV bought a small run-down beach cottage just south of Umdoni during COVID and have spent the last few years fixing it up. It is now a beautifully simple but epic spot, with a 180-degree sea view and a patio you'll want to spend all day on.
We arrived at dusk and set about with our evening goals of dinner, wine and a podcast.
I'm not sure we will ever top that podcast recording location - outside under the stars with a few (cough many) bottles of vino and a large fire burning. We had a security interruption, a power failure and a few snack breaks. But, hopefully, we did Umdoni proud.
You can book the cottage - colloquially known as Dinky the Dolphin - under the more fancy name of Elysium Dunes.
Umkhomaas
The dawn rush to the first tee was likely attributed to our wine-fueled escapades the previous evening. However, my empty fuel tank didn’t help, either.
There’s something invigorating about driving a gas-guzzler with the fuel gauge hovering below the empty sign. We barely had a minute between parking and taking our first shot.
A nine-hole course was first built at Umkhomaas in 1913 and was expanded to 18 holes in 1926. In 1932 renowned architect Bob Grimsdell completely redesigned the course in his classic style, using natural contours and raised greens to accentuate the layout.
The result is a timeless, adventurous, out-and-in routing through interesting, contoured land punctuated by beautiful coastal forests and expansive sea views.
Sounds pretty good right?
It is.
The course starts at sea level and gradually winds its way up a large hill adjacent to the suburbs. With no walls or fences marking the course boundaries, it feels like a natural extension of the town—a rare and wonderful characteristic for a golf course.
I can easily picture the course transforming into a community park in the evenings, with children playing in bunkers while their dogs run free, and teenagers hitting a few holes as the sun sets.
This sense of openness captures the essence of what golf courses should be—not exclusive, gated retreats but shared spaces woven into the fabric of community life.
On the 3rd hole, the tough stroke 1, I utilised this to my advantage as my drive sailed onto the suburban road and ricocheted back into play off a resident's garage. The dent marks in the door told me I wasn't the first.
The layout of Umkhomaas is exceptional. While it does ascend significantly in elevation, none of the holes feel gimmicky. The peak is reached via the uphill par 3 4th—tough but fair—setting the stage for stunning views of subsequent holes.
Nestled in between is the halfway house, a humble yet functional container. A young legend manned it that day, looking no older than 10, but showcasing impressive skill and poise. It was undoubtedly not his first rodeo!
There’s no weak hole from 6 to 14, with my favorites being 8, 13, and 14.
The par 3 13th offers stunning infinity views, situated at the top of the hill with breathtaking panoramas of the ocean and surroundings. The signature 14th hole calls for a strategic tee shot over or short of a diagonal stream hazard—diagonal hazards are always compelling!
As the back nine unfolded, I finally found my groove and nearly drove the greens on the 12th, 15th, and 16th—each reachable, yet I couldn’t convert any of these birdie chances. I delivered the best 7-iron of my year on the par 3 17th but failed to take advantage of it, and by that time, the Lucozade and ibuprofen had completely worn off.
The 18th features a railway line running along the right side—out of bounds. I carefully avoided it by pulling my shot to the left, managing a bogey to finish and missing another chance to break 80 by just one stroke.
As we wrapped up, a jovial golf school off the 18th green welcomed us with loud cheers and a packed cooler. They offered us a beer, and while we didn’t join their festivities, it captured the quintessential South Coast vibe: beautiful weather, friendly people, and no-frills, great golf.
Earlier this year, during the Springbok vs. Ireland match in Durban, we had the honor of meeting SA golf legend Tim Clark. Hailing from Umkhomaas, Tim has a deep-rooted connection to the club, investing much energy and funding over the years. Although back pain limits his play to just once or twice a year, he never misses a round at Umkhomaas.
Umdoni and Umkhomaas feel like close kin, born around the same time and cut from the same cloth. Don't let their varying rankings or conditions deter you.
These are classic gems that offer something unique compared to the manicured, estate-style layouts you might encounter more often.
Don’t miss the chance to experience both.
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